Media Composition: Acid vs Base
Mar 31, 2008 7:53:28 GMT -10
Post by rainforest on Mar 31, 2008 7:53:28 GMT -10
One of the major problems in growing nepenthes is that the soils which we use breaks down rapidly and will need amendments. For young growing seedlings, etc., you can use almost any media since the rapid transplanting process allows the media to be moved from one size container to the next. The best way to grow nepenthes is to allow their roots to occupy the smallest volume of media possible. When the soil is infiltrated with roots, the living root system prevents the media from becoming acid. This would mean that the watering process will be more frequent and perhaps heavier, especially on root bound plants. But this is the best way to grow plants with full root systems and keep them pitchering. Once an established plant enters the adult stage, your media should be composed more carefully. A media with an even ratio of acid producing and alkaline stabilizing components should be blended together. This will help stabilize the media from becoming too acidic. And while there are many things written on how nepenthes are acid-loving plants, this is a false statement and can corrupt growing conditions of your plants in the long range. All media is made up of acid and base components. These come together to afford the best environment where nutrients, water absorption and root stability evenly mesh together in perfect harmony. It is this balance that is difficult to obtain and for many it is a hit and miss situation of understanding what you are doing successfully or wrong. Let's break down the acid and base components so you can see how things come together.
Acid Components: Coco origin media, peat moss, LFS, all bark products, all organic origin composts, etc.
Base Components: River sand, Pumice, Perlite, coral chips, limestone, etc.
There are organic components which can develop into a basic media when used in its fresh state, but these eventually add to the acid range after decomposition. These include: raw bark, fern fibers, weeds, and live sphagnum. The idea of weeds being part of the solution may sound odd, but in living plant tissues, acid solutions are absorbed, thus reducing soil acidity in the media. One of the most common occurrence in habitat is to see ferns associated with nepenthes. Most nepenthes in the wild grow best when grown in competition with nearby plants. These can take the place of ferns, grasses, myrtaceae species, lycopodium and even moss. There may also be a symbiotic soil microorganism involved, but more likely it is because the roots of their commensal plant union are deeply embedded into these soils which provides better aeration and acid loss.
In captivity, weeds usually take over the media and in turn nepenthes suffers mostly due to water loss. But if water is plentiful and stress was not due to other factors, then the weeds actually help nurture nepenthes to grow properly in an otherwise acid environment. If you decide to use a plant for acid removal, then it should be wise to pick a plant that will have a good root system and not be too evasive. Some ferns may be beneficial for this job. Other ferns will be too invasive and could overtake your plant.
For most of us, we want a culture free of weeds and allowing our plants to mature and grow well without problems. A mixture of acid and base components will create a perfect balance. I would not suggest that everyone replant everything in their collection to accommodate this thought, but start with a few to experiment. I find when using basic components that they work best when placed at the bottom layer of your container. Do not use a solid layer of these, but a mixed integrated mixture of media that is basic and organic in composition.
The topic of limestone is a hot debate as to whether it is beneficial or destructive. I would suggest to add limestone at the bottom layer, away from any living root source. Bury other media components you are using over this layer and then to the layer of your transplanted plant it its own organic media.
The idea for using the basic component in the lowest layer is to prevent acid build-up from establishing at the bottom near the drain holes. Water, fertilizers, even pesticides will add acidity to your media and these will accumulate at the bottom of the pot. So to keep this region acid-free, a basic mixed layer would be important in maintaining this concept.
I have been experimenting with the use of coral chips at the bottom of containers and have found that when transplanting, I do not see that heavy sludge of inert media that sits like a layer of clay at the bottom of pots. Instead, I see roots penetrating to the lower levels if not wholly root bound there. The media at the bottom of these specialized layers also break down easily and crumbles when transplanting.
The addition of perlite/pumice to the main media also benefits the organic particles from coming together in a massed lump. Roots are allowed to travel easily through the media and this also helps bring water to the lower depths of the pot.
M
Acid Components: Coco origin media, peat moss, LFS, all bark products, all organic origin composts, etc.
Base Components: River sand, Pumice, Perlite, coral chips, limestone, etc.
There are organic components which can develop into a basic media when used in its fresh state, but these eventually add to the acid range after decomposition. These include: raw bark, fern fibers, weeds, and live sphagnum. The idea of weeds being part of the solution may sound odd, but in living plant tissues, acid solutions are absorbed, thus reducing soil acidity in the media. One of the most common occurrence in habitat is to see ferns associated with nepenthes. Most nepenthes in the wild grow best when grown in competition with nearby plants. These can take the place of ferns, grasses, myrtaceae species, lycopodium and even moss. There may also be a symbiotic soil microorganism involved, but more likely it is because the roots of their commensal plant union are deeply embedded into these soils which provides better aeration and acid loss.
In captivity, weeds usually take over the media and in turn nepenthes suffers mostly due to water loss. But if water is plentiful and stress was not due to other factors, then the weeds actually help nurture nepenthes to grow properly in an otherwise acid environment. If you decide to use a plant for acid removal, then it should be wise to pick a plant that will have a good root system and not be too evasive. Some ferns may be beneficial for this job. Other ferns will be too invasive and could overtake your plant.
For most of us, we want a culture free of weeds and allowing our plants to mature and grow well without problems. A mixture of acid and base components will create a perfect balance. I would not suggest that everyone replant everything in their collection to accommodate this thought, but start with a few to experiment. I find when using basic components that they work best when placed at the bottom layer of your container. Do not use a solid layer of these, but a mixed integrated mixture of media that is basic and organic in composition.
The topic of limestone is a hot debate as to whether it is beneficial or destructive. I would suggest to add limestone at the bottom layer, away from any living root source. Bury other media components you are using over this layer and then to the layer of your transplanted plant it its own organic media.
The idea for using the basic component in the lowest layer is to prevent acid build-up from establishing at the bottom near the drain holes. Water, fertilizers, even pesticides will add acidity to your media and these will accumulate at the bottom of the pot. So to keep this region acid-free, a basic mixed layer would be important in maintaining this concept.
I have been experimenting with the use of coral chips at the bottom of containers and have found that when transplanting, I do not see that heavy sludge of inert media that sits like a layer of clay at the bottom of pots. Instead, I see roots penetrating to the lower levels if not wholly root bound there. The media at the bottom of these specialized layers also break down easily and crumbles when transplanting.
The addition of perlite/pumice to the main media also benefits the organic particles from coming together in a massed lump. Roots are allowed to travel easily through the media and this also helps bring water to the lower depths of the pot.
M
