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Post by rainforest on Oct 11, 2008 8:01:06 GMT -10
Once upon a time we read that fertilizing nepenthes could kill nepenthes because they would not be able to use fertilizers because they derived all of their nutrition from pitcher capture. Some growers even listed control and testing lots to prove that fertilized plants did poorly in comparison to control plants just being fed bugs and water alone.
Once upon a time nepenthes were thought of plants that could only be housed in areas with ultra high humidity. That plants exposed to dryer air would not develop pitchers and eventually the plant will dry up and die.
Once upon a time people were convinced that tissue cultured plants were superior to seed grown originals. That they were told that these clones were selected from many seedlings and selected for vigor, best color, and so on. Many were also led to believe that they were better growers than their seed grown counterparts. That it was normal for a tc plant to remain as a two inch pot plant for five or more years.
Once upon a time the collection of species was a dutiful task to ensure the future of many endangered nepenthes species. Yet so many of these suppliers just offered a single clone of the species defending that it is saved as this one clone.
Once upon a time we were lead to believe that nepenthes can be grown in coco/coir and they can mature and persist in this media of choice. Other medias of choice included LFS and peat moss. That these medias are the best for these plants.
to be continued.......
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victoria
Insignes
The ignorance of man stains the land!
Posts: 52
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Post by victoria on Oct 11, 2008 12:12:51 GMT -10
So are you saying coco/coir is bad for Neps or just straight coco/coir? I grow in coco chips and perlite so if they are going to start to decline I would rather have a bit of a heads up about it.....they are all doing exceptionally well for me in this mix right now.....Im just a bit unclear by what you mean by the last paragraph.
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Robiii
Nobiles
Grow the new world
Posts: 262
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Post by Robiii on Oct 11, 2008 21:57:02 GMT -10
Victoria it might work but I'd still say add more non organic medias into the mix, cinder, sand, and other similar media additives. It helps with drainage, mineral deficincy (I'm fairly sure), and slows the breakdown of the organic medias within the mix. It's good for germination though.?. Mike might have some other points to add since he's still way over my head on the subject to begin.
Rob
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Post by jgriffin on Oct 13, 2008 14:30:15 GMT -10
Michael, How far are you going back on fertilizing Nepenthes ? I have been growing CP since 1979 and people were fertilizing before then...
Cheers,
Joe
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Post by rainforest on Oct 13, 2008 14:42:10 GMT -10
circa 1970
Show me any literature to state this prior to my late postings of the 1999 period.
M
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Post by jgriffin on Oct 13, 2008 14:58:25 GMT -10
I will see what I can dig up. Circa 1970 for growing? I looked at your Bio, you are a little older than I imagined. On a side subject, can you tell me or lead me to some of your postings on what you do for low humidity? I seem to recall you have a steady drip of water flowing through your media. I do enjoy seeing photos of your plants.
Cheers,
Joe
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Post by rainforest on Oct 13, 2008 15:13:54 GMT -10
I do not have any problems with humidity since living in Hawai'i has its benefits for maintaining higher humidity levels. I did have a problem in my cool houses but remedied that problem with using circulating chilled water (similar in the way one would keep salt water fish tanks) to keep media and surrounding air cooler. The combination of higher ambient temperatures and copper pipes of cold water produces water droplets to form and therefore maintaining humidity levels. This same process has also similar effects on growing Darlingtonias with chilled circulating water.
M
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Post by jgriffin on Oct 30, 2008 6:15:35 GMT -10
Well, here is a piece from a 1986 issue of Carnivorous Plant Newsletter, and below the URL is a email from the author. Interesting to see how the perception to general CP growers has changed for Nepenthes. A lot of fantastic species have been discovered since then though. www.carnivorousplants.org/cpn/articles/CPNv15n2p53.pdfHi Joe, The Australian trip was fantastic and hopefully we will be able to go back in a few years to spend more time in Sydney and Caines. The CP are just overpowering in the western region. Pertaining to your question about Nepenthes and fertilization, we starting doing it in the late 70's to speed up their growth a bit. At that time, not too many nurseries had them and they were not very popular with collectors. Drosera was the main interest at that time we had a difficult time selling Nepenthes to collectors. The wholesale trade was not interested in them at all, so we eventually ended up selling cuttings to collectors at a $1/ft. We also sold a lot of plants to Clyde and Bruce in Florida when we were operating out of Grant, Florida. I know that Leo Song used osmocote with some of his Nepenthes when is was over the Greenhouses at Cal State Fullerton, but growing information and contact between collectors was almost non-existent in the early days. CPN was about the only communications we had to work with. Today, the situation is entirely different of course. Your expert friend may have been born after we discontinued with our Nepenthes efforts... Bob
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Post by rainforest on Oct 31, 2008 8:42:52 GMT -10
I would like to see his results using osmocote since I am not particularly fond of it. What osmocote lacks is the ability to be controlled for nutrients. Nepenthes requires nutrients in a flush, then washed away to sterile soil environment. A timed release nutrient will be too mcuh for nepenthes. I used it once and was successful only when irrigated daily with an automatic drip system which flushed out the media and the nutrients as well.
A liquid organic or inorganic source will work best. Then watered even as soon as later in the day to flush out excess nutrients. Water is the most crucial element for growing nepenthes and frequent minimal nutrients work better than heavy doses of macronutrients.
M
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Post by jgriffin on Oct 31, 2008 9:12:36 GMT -10
Seems like a reasonable request, as I am interested in any tips, whether it backs up something that many people aleady advocate or a new concept. I will see if I can get anything on that. There was another CPN article(@2008) by Heiko Reischer(sp?) about inorganic substrates. He used lava pebbles, lectacon and seramis-I think both the latter are fired clay substrates? He also used Osmocote for this to compensate for the lack of organics and reported it very successful with every species he tried(I do not remember the number, but it was A LOT). I believe there was a lot of watering, which you would expect in a medium that does not retain much water. I have heard other complaints about Osmocote. I wonder what condition variables would make Osmocote seem great for some and not great for others?
Joe
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Post by nepromantic on Oct 31, 2008 18:54:45 GMT -10
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Post by jgriffin on Nov 2, 2008 4:09:51 GMT -10
Thank you, Simon!
Joe
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Post by Marcello Catalano on Nov 2, 2008 12:56:23 GMT -10
circa 1970 Show me any literature to state this prior to my late postings of the 1999 period. M Ehm, "Insect-eating plants and how to grow them", Adrian Slack (1986)? "Carnivorous Plants of the World", J. & P. Pietropaolo (1986)? Lots of people seem to have great plants in coir. Lots of people for ages used Miracid and Osmocote with great results. Are you sure about what you're saying? Marcello
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Post by rainforest on Nov 2, 2008 13:51:08 GMT -10
POSITIVE!!! Try it out. Let's start with your one of a kind stuff. Use Miracid and Osmocote together! Report your findings after a month. I will copy and paste what I wrote earlier after you post your results.
Curious minds want to know!
M
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obregon562
Nobiles
"I do believe Im feeling stronger everyday."
Posts: 387
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Post by obregon562 on Nov 2, 2008 14:31:52 GMT -10
Im still curious about the "Coir not being good" idea.
most of my sale neps are in coir based medias...
Can you please explain this better as my personal plants are in coir/pumice/what i use for mexican ping soil too, and i do not want coir ruining them!
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